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Up for grabs is x1 Welwitschia mirabilis seedling!
The one you get is the exact one in the pictures and video!This seedling on racing stripes if you\'re into that.
Please understand Welwitschia can be a difficult plant to grow. I cannot be responsible if you kill the plant after receiving a healthy seedling.
*Leaves may relax in new environment which is normal*Age: 1 YEAR OLDPot: D40H - 2.5 x 10” Heavyweight Depot Cell
Rootbound, but does not need to be repotted until the caudex is more near the rim of the pot.Gender: too soon to know
Leaves: Both true leaves just over 7 inches long.Current environment that I grow in:
Daily year-round air temp = 85-90F
Media = 3/16\" pumice (Brand is General pumice, I buy it on , somewhat expensive, but they do great in pumice).
Relative humidity = 70% (due to grow tent). ***You do not need to grow them in high humidity! ***. Gives me a moderate VPD to work with.
Lux = around 12000
PPFD = around 277
DLI = around 24
Fertigation = every 2-3 days. These changes due to other variables. I use a liquid fertilizer which rapidly gets taken up by the roots. Use a complete fertilizer with micronutrients! Adjust pH to around 5.8-6.2 for final fertilizer solution in RO/DI water (better than tap). Be aware of your PPM in your final solution. Adjust fertilizer PPM to your desire. Maxsea offers a great highly water soluble fertilizer.Want to grow in a hot greenhouse with succulents, and keep it as is? Fertigate daily to every 2 days (repotting in a deeper, slightly wider pot gives you more wiggle room in pure pumice).Want to grow in room, and keep it as is? Fertigate every 2-3 days (repotting in a deeper, slightly wider pot gives you more wiggle room in pure pumice).DO NOT place on a heat mat.****They are not succulents, do not ever let them dry out!***-The leaves will rapidly dieback if you treat it like a succulent and can die.
-They do have taproots, but mostly rely on secondary roots (smaller, white roots) to take up water and ions.
-Leaves do tear easily at any age but will grow back from the meristem in due time.
-Cotyledons are still attached and can be present for the next month to the next year or so.-These can be grown inside a controlled greenhouse outside and inside. They like high indirect LED light if its inside. Do not expose them to direct sunlight. Anthocyanins will appear and or rapid leaf dieback from using stored water since no available water is in the media or the roots.-Once you get it from the mail, flush with fertilizer water. Do not let roots sit in water. Can stay in the current pot for another few months but is ready for a slightly deeper pot. Avoid breaking roots, specifically the secondary roots. Gently flip the pot upside down, gently pat it out, and then place it in its new container and backfill with new pumice of the same size. Fertigate daily for 2 weeks and then go on your own watering schedule from your OWN environment variables.-Bareroot repotting is possible but is riskier. Higher chance with bareroot repot with younger ones. Submerging in room temp water and gently take it out can be less stressful than just pulling on roots without loosening anything first.-New growth is light green to bronze in color and eventually changes to normal chlorophyll levels. A new environment may make the leaves more relaxed which is normal.-You can add a bit more organics to pumice, but please remember to ADJUST your watering schedule.For more cultivation tips, feel free to reach out to me after purchasing!
Reference: A2Please note prices also reflect fees and all shipping related costs.I ship via USPS Priority Mail, and carefully package each one to prevent any leaf breakage with packing peanuts. Please understand that true leaves can easily be damaged, to even pulled out from the meristem but will still push out leaf tissue if that does happen. Scratches on true leaves may occur while in transit.Due to CITES, no shipping outside the U.S.!
Shipping:
I ship out Monday/Tuesday for beyond West Coast.
Thursday is the latest to send out for Saturday delivery if you LIVE in California.